You set the angle you need (45 degrees, etc.) by moving the bottom knob over while pushing on the red button above it. Here's a pic of the side of it:
The small circular knob on the far right is what you pull out to release the top of the saw so it will move up and down. Then you press the yellow button (on top left) while squeezing the red trigger in order to work the saw. It's actually quite easy (but loud).
Here's a photo of the mouldings I used for the top of the cabinets:
I used a 2 1/4 inch casing moulding (on left) from Lowe's that's made of that foam material. They don't call it foam in the store, so that's what's confusing. They call it "cen" moulding (abbreviation for something, but I can't remember what). The moulding on the right is screen moulding (also foam material) that is 1/4 inch thick and 3/4 inch wide, which I put under the interior edge of all sides of the cabinet (since the cabinet edges stuck out 1/4 inch on the outer edges). I used the screen moulding to stabilize the moulding I put on top (if that makes sense). Here's a closer pic of where I put the screen moulding (between the cabinet and the casing moulding on top):
Here's how my upper cabinets looked when I framed them out:
I like it! Think it looks pretty good! It took about 4 hours to cut and nail up this moulding on the 5 cabinet ends in my kitchen (but this included a short dinner break, etc.).
A little problem I ran up against: when I was using my nail punch to drive some of the brad nails from the brad nailer that didn't go in all the way flush, it turns out my nail punch was too small and I kept missing when I used the hammer on it, and it was making little dents in my foam moulding. Luckily, my husband said he had another size nail punch, which has a bigger head and thus would give me less problems. Here is a pic of the larger head nail punch (on left). Who knew there were different sizes of nail punches?! Not me, until today.
Tomorrow's project: caulk the moulding and paint it.